A new cookbook landed on my desk this week, Good Enough: Embracing the Joys of Imperfection by Leanne Brown, and I found myself instantly drawn to the title. Isn’t that what any sensible person strives for in their cooking? Yes, there was an insane time in the Nineties when like many others I attempted to replicate Michelin-starred cooking at home, poring over recipes for Marco’s tagliatelle of poached oysters and caviar or Gordon’s turbot in red wine with civet sauce, and then wondering why I found it so stressful, but since then I’ve cast my youthful ambition aside. Cooking is no longer a competitive sport.
I now realise that the success of a meal, especially from a guest’s point of view, is based not on
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